Skin Care Products
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs, glycolic acid, lactic acid), antioxidants (vitamins A, E, C), and vitamin A derivatives (Retin-A, Renova and retinol) in moisturizers are frequently promoted as products that can make skin younger-looking. Here's what to expect from these products:AHAs
They contain lactic acid (found in milk), fruit acids, and glycolic acids (found in sugar cane). AHAs, like tretinoin derivatives, work by peeling away dead and thickened areas of the skin. Cosmetic treatments containing highly concentrated AHAs, known as chemical peels, have long been available from healthcare professionals. Prescription creams contain approximately four percent to 12 percent concentration of AHAs and provide a superficial smoothing of the skin's texture. Over-the-counter (OTC) preparations typically contain one percent active ingredient, which may provide a little improvement. Higher concentrations of the active ingredients in OTC products are buffered and therefore neutralized to prevent peeling. Improvements with these or prescription products last only as long as the product is used. Long-term effects of AHAs are unknown. They can irritate the skin. Signs of sensitivity are redness and burning.Antioxidants
Vitamins A, E, and C are known as antioxidants. Their claim to fame as aides in skin health is in their ability to fight free radicals, the highly reactive molecules generated by oxygen, sunlight, smoking, and pollution that can break down the collagen fibres of the skin. Research is inconclusive about how effective antioxidants are for improving the skin's appearance. Ingestion of large amounts of some of these vitamins can be toxic. High doses of vitamin A, when taken during pregnancy, are suspected of increasing the risk of birth defects. Topical treatments of antioxidants can cause rashes, but small amounts are probably not harmful for most skin types.Renova
This prescription cream is basically Retin-A in a moisturizing base that decreases the redness and burning associated with Retin-A. The active ingredient in Retin-A and Renova is tretinoin, a vitamin A derivative. This skin cream is the only product approved by the FDA to reduce fine wrinkling. Any improvement may take a month or longer to notice and will last only as long as the cream is used. Renova makes the skin sun-sensitive, so wearing sunscreen and protective clothing during treatment is important. Side effects include redness, dryness and sensitivity. Tretinoin (retinoids) used topically during pregnancy is not believed to be sufficiently absorbed to be a risk for increasing birth defects. Oral use of retinoids during pregnancy or while planning a pregnancy, however, should be avoided.Natural products
The pharmacological effects of materials such as seaweed and oatmeal, often used in facemasks or peels, are unknown. Papain, an enzyme found in papaya, is helpful in sloughing off dead skin cells, but can be expensive.